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Breaking up is Hard to Do
By Sam Anderson
An breakline edge is where gravel turns to sand, mud meets rock, drop-offs,
wave-washed points, deserted sandy bottom beaches, or bottle necks between
two different land masses, or near a culvert where fresh water is filtered
through a rock causeway. The breakline edge of a specific structure is
a great place to start looking for spring walleyes. These edges
form breaks, which almost act
like barriers to hold fish a little longer to feed before they move
on. These are physical boundaries between shallow
food producing areas and deep water areas of the lake. Here schools
of active walleyes meet concentrations of food and often this is a prime
fishing area. By fishing the breakline edges of weeds, drop-offs
and structure like rocks, you will increase your chances of finding a funnel
point where fish concentrate. These spots vary but are based on
factors like: water temperature, availability of baitfish, oxygen, light
level, structure and schooling tendencies.
Don't
just find the first drop-off and start trolling along it down the lake.
Begin by looking for and locating fish to determine productive depths and
how fish are oriented to structure. Locate prominent areas like points,
humps, weededges--typical feeding and holding areas for walleyes. Then
search the edges with electronics, noting irregularities in the drop-off
and sections that attract fish. Once walleyes are spotted, match your presentation
to their depth and location.
Ideally, slowly backtroll with a transom electric motor (or bowmount
electric on larger boats), maneuvering along the edges of structure,
following contours with your baits. Move slow enough to keep your lines
as vertical as possible to maximize control and sense of feel. You want
your bait below the boat in the
transducer cone, where you can simultaneously see both fish and the
bottom. If the wind kicks up, backtroll with your tiller outboard if necessary,
or use a combo of a big console engine with one or two sea anchors to maintain
boat control. The ability to maintain bottom contact, sense of feel, and
interpret changes in bottom conditions is paramount to success. Lift
and hold your sinker slightly off bottom most of the time, keeping the
bait near bottom without risking snags. Dip the sinker down every few seconds
to reconfirm that it's near bottom and to feel for changes, such as transitions
from rock to sand or mud. Deep fish like to lie along changes in bottom
composition where the harder bottom of a
drop-off joins the softer bottom of the basin, often as deep as 30
to 50 feet in spring. Pay particular attention to such changes along prominent
points that gather walleyes. Don't hurry if you see fish on your
electronics. Hover in limited
areas, working and reworking fish. Backtroll upwind, control drift
downwind, saturating the area with lively livebait. Change the direction
of your trolling path if necessary, moving up and down the drop-off rather
than back and forth along it. Show the fish something different than other
rigs in the area. Patience is key. If fish are aggressive, they'll bang
a minnow right away. If not, it's not unusual to spend several minutes
letting the minnow wiggle in their faces before triggering a bite. The
biggest mistake is to breeze through good spots too quickly. Give 'em as
much time as necessary to get a response. Boat control is key. Boat
movement positions the bait. What you do on the surface is mirrored by
what occurs below. One of the easiest and most rudimentary forms
of boat control known as the controlled drift. Instead of drifting
across the center of the lake, the boat is carried along a drop off that
roughly parallels the direction of the wind. The fisherman keeps
his eyes on the depthfinder and, when the boat is blown in too shallow
or out too deep, he nudges it back into fish territory with the kicker
outboard or a trolling motor. As many anglers know, fish are usually most
active near the windblown shore, but probably presenting a bait to them
can prove a trial. Anchoring limits you to a single spot when the
fish may be someplace else or spread along the breakline, and short
wind drifts have you
motoring, casting and reeling most of the time The speed and
direction of a drift can be modified in other ways, too. Try cocking
the outboard in different angles while you drift. Standing
up in the boat increases your "Sail area" and drift speed, while fishing
low decreases them (which is usually preferable).
Drifting is a good way to catch a trophy because even the craftiest
fish can not hear you coming. One way that I have solved the problem
with boat control is by using a sea anchor. A sea anchor is a cone-shaped
under water windsock, similar to those at airports that detect changes
in wind direction. Drift Control sea anchors aid boat control
in two ways. First of all, they slow your drift in strong winds.
Secondly, you can use them to fine-tune subtle boat maneuvers in rough
seas or heavy current. Most anglers who fish large expansive lakes
or rivers carry a sea anchor with them daily. The rule is usually
that one Drift Control sea anchor is adequate for most boats and
conditions. But, if you have a large boat and the sea anchor isn't
doing its job you may need your large one off the front cleat and a smaller
one at the stern. When fishing alone in a console boat in heavy winds,
I troll headlong into the wind with a sea anchor tied at the bow of the
boat. By letting out about 8 feet of rope, the bag trails next to
the console. I can yank it out of the water with a safety cord if
I need to without getting out of my seat and I never lose control of the
boat. That maybe all right if you want to slow down your presentation,
but control is still very important and you have to be able to control
your presentation if you want the fish to bite. One way that I approach
control is by tying a sea anchor at the bow of the boat and then
backtrolling along a contour depth. By tying a Drift Control sea
anchor at the bow of the boat it will hold the bow down and reduces
splashing
for backtrolling into the wind. This control will even allow
me to swim
a
1/16 ounce Fuzzy Grub over the rocks and keep my boat pointed in the direction
I want to go, rather than the way the wind wants to push me. Drift Control,
sea anchors are good safety devices, too. If you're caught in heavy
waves with a dead motor, a sea anchor will keep the
boat's bow pointed into the waves. I know winning at a tournament
level means that you are probably going to have to control the wind.
That starts with using the biggest, most powerful trolling motor on the
market, that, is a
775 Beast. This model has the most thrust and is built to take the roughest
water that Mother Nature can dish out. Get a good battery, too, such
as the
Trolling Thunder. It would be miserable to find an active school
of walleyes only to have the battery become weaker and weaker and eventually
being blown away from the spot with a dead battery. A tool of river
anglers, slipping helps manage the current for fishing. Actually
the technique involves nothing more than using the kicker outboard, or
electric motor or any other means of propulsion to slow the drift of a
boat. The boat still moves downstream, but not as fast as the current.
It's a little like walking slowly up a down escalator, or
not quite keeping up with a treadmill. The amount of power provided
in relation to the force of the current determines your speed.
On a lazy river, a slow and constant reverse thrust from your electric
motor will allow you an extra cast or two as you drift past riverbank ambush
points. In a boiling flow, you might
have to buck up the Mercury kicker outboard to get the same result.
The
amount of slip increases as you power up to oppose the current.
When the two forces are equal, you are effectively stalled on the river.
I like to use slipping when live bait fishing a river. My favorite
spots are long, deep runs with a good current pushing through. By
alternately stalling in the current, slipping backward and powering forward,
I can move my baits over every inch of the river bottom.
Slipping is not the only method of boat control in a river. Many
anglers cast a jig and minnow or night crawler up stream, the use their
electric motors to hurry their boats downstream slightly faster than the
current. Because the baits are being dragged downs stream, almost
no weight is needed to keep them near bottom. Long stretches of river
can be searched for schools of fish by this method. Fishing breaklines
is hard to do, but I am sure that you can master
these techniques to help you stay in contact with the fish. If
you would like to stay in contact with me you can drop me a line on the
web,at: www.samanderson.com
and
we can discuss fishing breaklines this spring.
Walleyes Inc. website is maintained
by Randy
Tyler Fishing the In-Fisherman Professional Walleye Circuit, Masters
Walleye Circuit and the Team Walleye Circuit. All rights reserved.Copyright
1999/2001
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